Feb 5, 2010

My Mother is an Ugly Woman

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My sense of shame in being an Indian in front of foreigners has
somewhat changed over time.

When I was younger, I used to be very bothered whenever I saw people
begging, pestering a visitor at the traffic intersection and of
course, the sight of people defecating in full public view.

These sights do not put me to shame anymore.

I have come to terms with the underlying causes that make my
countrymen beg, bother foreigners near touristic places or live in
squalor next to heritage sites and five star hotels.

When people do not have a roof above their heads and everyday is a
matter of survival for the majority, what use is my shame?

I am deeply aware that every civilization must progress on its own
terms, in its own time. There are no short cuts to uplifting more than
half of a country with 1.2 billion people into a developed state. I
have done my own bit towards that cause, and I will continue to do
what I can, but in my lifetime it is very unlikely that there will be
no beggars on the street, or that people will stop relieving
themselves in public view, or that I will see the vanishing of squalor
that co-exists with the sometimes ugly opulence in our cities. So,
these days, when I am with a visitor from overseas, I am not ashamed
any longer with the sights, smells and sounds of India .

But last week, I held my head in shame - deep shame - and this
happened in a small University town in Germany .

I had been invited there to speak at a student gathering. Along with
my wife Susmita, I had arrived the day before, and we were touched by
the affection and hospitality of the students and the faculty. During
the dinner that night, we had told our student hosts Paul and Leo that
if ever they came to India , they must stay at our home so that we
could return some of their hospitality. Because our two daughters left
home a long time back, we live in Bangalore all by ourselves, and love
hosting young people from around the world.

That was the night before. The next day, when the student event
actually began, my talk was preceded by one from an Indian gentleman
based in Germany ; he runs the German operation of a family-owned
Indian conglomerate that is a household name in India . The gentleman
has been in Europe for a long time, and has evidently done well for
himself.

He started his presentation titled "The Indian Mind". It was a medley
of Internet jokes customized for India , a bunch of PowerPoint slides
that frequently spam all of us depicting the greatness of ancient
India , and a bunch of cartoons that depicted the so-called "the
Indian way". There was also a short movie that contrasted Germans and
Indians based on
cultural generalization. Finally, he delivered his own take on what
Indians are supposedly like.

The presentation opened with the macabre picture of a skull with a
dollar sign stuffed inside it.

The narrative to match this dramatic, if disturbing, image went
something like this:

An Indian went to see a banker in Manhattan . He wanted a $100 loan;
he was willing to pay any amount of interest, and offered his Porsche
as collateral.
After taking the loan from the flummoxed banker, he went off to India
on month long vacation. When he came back, he promptly returned the
$100 along with the interest of $20 and reclaimed his car. When the
banker asked him to explain this puzzling behavior, our man proudly
said, "Where else in Manhattan could I park my car for an entire month
for all of $20?"

WOW!

The two hundred or so young German students laughed at the joke.

Then came slide after slide on the glory that once was India :
Aryabhatta to Charaka, he depicted the story of zero to the fact once
upon a time, India had invented chess. He told the audience how we had
figured out gravity before Newton did, and the concept of
inter-Galactic travel before anyone else.

The audience sat in awe.

Then he switched over to a film clip that sought to contrast the past
with the present. His film clip showed Indian legislators break
chairs, throw footwear at each other, and not stopping there, break
their microphones to hurl missiles at each other until blood flowed
from the injured, and finally some law makers were seen taking cover
under their tables.

The German students were now bewildered and I started to feel
uncomfortable sitting in their midst. But then I told myself, maybe
the truth must be told and this is important knowledge about India
that the 200 future leaders must know. And why not? As I gulped down
my discomfort, more Internet jokes followed.

One was about corruption and inefficiency.

A man supposedly went to Hell only to find that there were regional
options available down there. There was this American Hell that
offered a hundred lashes. Next to it, he found the German Hell that
offered a choice between a electric chair and fifty lashes. The man
moved on to check out the Indian Hell and finally settled for it. Why?

In the Indian Hell, there were power-cuts so the electric chair did
not work and the person in charge of lashing sinners simply took his
salary and never came to work!

The students laughed some. That was indeed funny!

Then he went on to tell the next Internet joke.

Americans had invited international bids to build a fence around the
White House. An American and a German firm that submitted bids had
taken careful measurements and then they had quoted $700 and $1200
respectively for the work. Then there was the Indian firm that took no
measurements and simply quoted $2700. The bewildered decision-maker
called in the Indian bidder and asked him to explain. "How can you
quote such a high price when you have not even taken measurements?",
he asked. Our man replied with supreme confidence, "I do not need to
take measurements. I will pay you a thousand and take athousand and we
will sub-contract the work to the lowest bidder."

WOW!
Then our presenter showed a short film contrasting how Germans and
Indians thought of the idea of forming a queue - the Germans fell into
instant orderliness and formed a single file but Indians pushed
around, and broke the line as soon as one was formed. Then he showed a
German parking a car, and how an Indian does it, and a few other such
things including how Indian bureaucracy and politics differ from that
of the Germans.

Everyone in the audience was getting the message.

At this point, he returned from the movie to slides.

With dramatic flourish, he showed a picture of a bucket full of crabs.

"This picture was taken on an Indian beach while I was with a friend
from Germany . He was curious to know why the crabs were not escaping
the bucket. I said, `Let us call the fisherman and ask him´. The
fisherman listened to the question and told us, `These are Indian
crabs. When one tries to get out, the others simply pull him down´. "

Oh well, never mind if you have heard a dozen variations of the same joke.

Now the attention of the students was beginning to wane a little bit.
So, he came to the end of his presentation on India .

He had a slide that said Indians liked to receive (and, thankfully,
also give) presents. And then he went on to hold aloft his magnum
opus, a slide that prophetically read:

"Indians do not mean what they say and do not say what they mean"

It required a story to explain.

So, he narrated how a group of Germans were once called home for
dinner by an Indian. The Germans being Germans took the invitation
seriously and actually showed up only to find an unprepared host who
opened the door in his pajamas. The message was clear. Do not take
Indians at face value.

My mind turned to the dinnertime conversation the previous night, and
I wondered what Paul and Leo were now thinking about our invitation to
come stay with us when they visited Bangalore ! Finally, the man
gloriously wound up, saying that despite all this, India was one of
the fastest growing economies in which if anyone chose to put in his
money, it was bound to fetch a great return.

The audience clapped and then everyone took a fifteen minute break.
¤
I headed to the toilet.

There was a long queue.

Suddenly a young German student in the queue, unaware that I was
behind him, did a mock drill of breaking the line to form what he
called an "Indian Queue".

I was the only Indian there, and I had only my countryman to thank for
the ignominy.
¤
I had to wait until that afternoon for my talk, and when done with
that, we returned to our hotel.

The next day, one of the student organizers came over to drive us to
Frankfurt in a rental car so that we could leave for the US from
there.While driving on the Autobahn, unfortunately, the car drove over
some object and its two left wheels burst. We pulled over, and, after
counting our blessings for what did not happen, called for help. After
probably an hour, another student organizer reached us and we switched
over to his car. The first student had to stay with the damaged car,
waiting for a tow-truck to arrive.

Soon we were on our way.

The entire episode had shaken everybody, but thank God, no one was
hurt. Nonetheless, many plans had gone haywire. We were all past our
lunch time by the time the second car had arrived. So when we finally
reached our hotel in Frankfurt , we invited our young friend to join
us for lunch since he too had missed his, and was to now drive all the
way back to his University town. When Susmita asked him to park his
car and come into the hotel to have lunch with us, he responded
spontaneously, and without any malice, "The German way
or the Indian?"

We tried to laugh off the repartee, but deep inside I felt hurt where
once upon a time, I used to feel shame.

Poor Susmita started convincing him that we really wanted him to have
lunch before he drove back, and of course, he joined us, but I wonder
how on earth we were to change the newfound knowledge on India that
was now deeply imprinted in 199 other young minds because an Indian in
a position of authority had so convincingly delivered the message that
we do not mean what we say and don´t say what we mean.

I can deal with my poor, uneducated, disheveled countrymen back home,
begging at traffic intersections, troubling foreigners, living in
squalor and defecating in public view, and behaving in a thousand
other unacceptable ways. But I have difficulty when the educated, the
well-to-do, the ones who have everything going for them, mentally
defecate, trying to impress the world at the cost of their own
country.

After lunch, when the young man was finally on his way and Koblenz was
behind us, I thought of the idea of motherland.

The word "Motherland" evoked the image of my mother. In that moment I
wondered if there is anyone in the whole world who thinks that his
mother is not beautiful.

Worse, is there anyone who actually tells the world that his mother is
an ugly woman?
A Must read…. Too good…

[Management Views from IIMB is an exclusive column written every two weeks for india.wsj.com by faculty members of the Indian Institute of Management Bangalore.]



Who sells the largest number of cameras in India?

Your guess is likely to be Sony, Canon or Nikon. Answer is none of the
above. The winner is Nokia whose main line of business in India is not
cameras but cell phones.

Reason being cameras bundled with cellphones are outselling stand
alone cameras. Now, what prevents the cellphone from replacing the
camera outright? Nothing at all. One can only hope the Sonys and
Canons are taking note.

Try this. Who is the biggest in music business in India? You think it
is HMV Sa-Re-Ga-Ma? Sorry. The answer is Airtel. By selling caller
tunes (that play for 30 seconds) Airtel makes more than what music
companies make by selling music albums (that run for hours).

Incidentally Airtel is not in music business. It is the mobile service
provider with the largest subscriber base in India. That sort of
competitor is difficult to detect, even more difficult to beat (by the
time you have identified him he has already gone past you). But if you
imagine that Nokia and Bharti (Airtel's parent) are breathing easy you
can't be farther from truth.

Nokia confessed that they all but missed the smartphone bus. They
admit that Apple's Iphone and Google's Android can make life difficult
in future. But you never thought Google was a mobile company, did you?
If these illustrations mean anything, there is a bigger game
unfolding. It is not so much about mobile or music or camera or
emails?

The "Mahabharat" (the great Indian epic battle) is about "what is
tomorrow's personal digital device"? Will it be a souped up mobile or
a palmtop with a telephone? All these are little wars that add up to
that big battle. Hiding behind all these wars is a gem of a question –
"who is my competitor?"

Once in a while, to intrigue my students I toss a question at them. It
says "What Apple did to Sony, Sony did to Kodak, explain?" The smart
ones get the answer almost immediately. Sony defined its market as
audio (music from the walkman). They never expected an IT company like
Apple to encroach into their audio domain. Come to think of it, is it
really surprising? Apple as a computer maker has both audio and video
capabilities. So what made Sony think he won't compete on pure audio?
"Elementary Watson". So also Kodak defined its business as film
cameras, Sony defines its businesses as "digital."

In digital camera the two markets perfectly meshed. Kodak was torn
between going digital and sacrificing money on camera film or staying
with films and getting left behind in digital technology. Left
undecided it lost in both. It had to. It did not ask the question "who
is my competitor for tomorrow?" The same was true for IBM whose
mainframe revenue prevented it from seeing the PC. The same was true
of Bill Gates who declared "internet is a fad!" and then turned around
to bundle the browser with windows to bury Netscape. The point is not
who is today's competitor. Today's competitor is obvious. Tomorrow's
is not.

In 2008, who was the toughest competitor to British Airways in India?
Singapore airlines? Better still, Indian airlines? Maybe, but there
are better answers. There are competitors that can hurt all these
airlines and others not mentioned. The answer is videoconferencing and
telepresence services of HP and Cisco. Travel dropped due to
recession. Senior IT executives in India and abroad were compelled by
their head quarters to use videoconferencing to shrink travel budget.
So much so, that the mad scramble for American visas from Indian
techies was nowhere in sight in 2008. (India has a quota of something
like 65,000 visas to the U.S. They were going a-begging. Blame it on
recession!). So far so good. But to think that the airlines will be
back in business post recession is something I would not bet on. In
short term yes. In long term a resounding no. Remember, if there is
one place where Newton's law of gravity is applicable besides physics
it is in electronic hardware. Between 1977 and 1991 the prices of the
now dead VCR (parent of Blue-Ray disc player) crashed to one-third of
its original level in India. PC's price dropped from hundreds of
thousands of rupees to tens of thousands. If this trend repeats then
telepresence prices will also crash. Imagine the fate of airlines
then. As it is not many are making money. Then it will surely be RIP!

India has two passions. Films and cricket. The two markets were
distinctly different. So were the icons. The cricket gods were Sachin
and Sehwag. The filmi gods were the Khans (Aamir Khan, Shah Rukh Khan
and the other Khans who followed suit). That was, when cricket was
fundamentally test cricket or at best 50 over cricket. Then came IPL
and the two markets collapsed into one. IPL brought cricket down to 20
overs. Suddenly an IPL match was reduced to the length of a 3 hour
movie. Cricket became film's competitor. On the eve of IPL matches
movie halls ran empty. Desperate multiplex owners requisitioned the
rights for screening IPL matches at movie halls to hang on to the
audience. If IPL were to become the mainstay of cricket, as it is
likely to be, films have to sequence their releases so as not clash
with IPL matches. As far as the audience is concerned both are what in
India are called 3 hour "tamasha" (entertainment). Cricket season
might push films out of the market.

Look at the products that vanished from India in the last 20 years.
When did you last see a black and white movie? When did you last use a
fountain pen? When did you last type on a typewriter? The answer for
all the above is "I don't remember!" For some time there was a mild
substitute for the typewriter called electronic typewriter that had
limited memory. Then came the computer and mowed them all. Today most
technologically challenged guys like me use the computer as an
upgraded typewriter. Typewriters per se are nowhere to be seen.

One last illustration. 20 years back what were Indians using to wake
them up in the morning? The answer is "alarm clock." The alarm clock
was a monster made of mechanical springs. It had to be physically
keyed every day to keep it running. It made so much noise by way of
alarm, that it woke you up and the rest of the colony. Then came
quartz clocks which were sleeker. They were much more gentle though
still quaintly called "alarms." What do we use today for waking up in
the morning? Cellphone! An entire industry of clocks disappeared
without warning thanks to cell phones. Big watch companies like Titan
were the losers. You never know in which bush your competitor is
hiding!

On a lighter vein, who are the competitors for authors? Joke spewing
machines? (Steve Wozniak, the co-founder of Apple, himself a Pole,
tagged a Polish joke telling machine to a telephone much to the mirth
of Silicon Valley). Or will the competition be story telling robots?
Future is scary! The boss of an IT company once said something
interesting about the animal called competition. He said "Have
breakfast …or…. be breakfast"! That sums it up rather neatly.